Fujifilm X-T2 vs X-T3 Buying Guide With Photo Samples

Released only two years apart, the Fujifilm X-T2 and X-T3 may look similar, but they are very different cameras under the surface.

The Fujifilm X-T2 and X-T3 have the same button, dial, and connection layouts. This means, on the outside, they are almost identical. The key difference between these two cameras is in their sensors. The X-T2 features Fujifilm’s X-Trans CMOS III sensor while the X-T3 features the X-Trans CMOS 4.

It’s important not only to know the differences between these cameras but to understand how they’ll affect your shooting, keep reading as I explain these differences and show you photos taken on both cameras.

Fujifilm X-T2 Versus X-T3 Pricing Guide

Seeing as the Fujifilm X-T2 and X-T3 are both discontinued, the price is inconsistent and can fluctuate depending on demand. Below are some prices for each camera that are current at the time of writing this article. I have included links to specific product pages whenever possible. Note that all prices are in USD.

B&H

B&H is one of the most trusted brands in photography and videography. They have a wide range of both used and new gear. They also have a rigorous inspection process along with a ninety-day parts and labour warranty.

The X-T2 is not up for sale at B&H anymore, while a used X-T3 body goes for roughly $700-800. Another option is to buy a used X-T3 with an 18-55mm f/2.8-4.0 kit lens for roughly $1,199.95.

KEH

KEH camera exclusively sell used gear. Like B&H, KEH also has an in-depth inspection and grading process along with a 180 day warranty (for most gear).

At KEH an X-T2 costs between $500-$600 for a used body alone. A used X-T3 body, on the other hand, costs between $850-$950.

Amazon

Amazon, being a marketplace, hosts products from multiple sellers. What this means is the inspection and grading process is not consistent among camera listings on Amazon.

Currently, an X-T2 body alone goes for roughly $1,200 while an X-T3 body goes for roughly $1,400.

eBay

eBay is another marketplace, though the sellers are often consumers so the testing and grading is less reliable. Always check seller reviews to ensure the listing isn’t a scam.

The X-T2 can be found for roughly $600 for the body alone while the X-T3 is between $750-$1,200 for a body alone.

Facebook Marketplace

The prices for both of these cameras on Facebook Marketplace are unique to each area and seller so I don’t have an exact number to provide. What I can do is give you some tips for buying cameras through Facebook Marketplace.

First, if the price is too good to be true, it probably is. Next, it’s okay to negotiate prices (unless the listing specifically states “non-negotiable”) but you shouldn’t lowball people. Lowballing isn’t respectful to the seller and is a waste of their time. Facebook Marketplace is made up of people just like you and me, so you should treat sellers with respect.

Tips for Buying the Fujifilm X-T2 & X-T3 Used

With the Fujifilm X-T2 having been released in late 2016 and the X-T3 having been released in late 2018, most of these cameras circulating the market are used.

Now, there is nothing wrong with buying a used camera, in fact, used cameras are great options for keeping costs low. The only caveat is that there is due diligence required when buying secondhand.

First, you’ll want to check the shutter count of the camera whenever possible. The shutter count of a digital camera tells you the exact number of times the camera’s shutter has actuated. In general, a camera’s shutter count is one of the main ways to assess where in its lifespan a camera is.

With seemingly no concrete number for the Fujifilm X-T2 and X-T3 shutter life, I’ll refer to that of the Fujifilm GFX 50S as most digital camera shutter lives are in the same general range. Fujifilm’s website states that, according to their “internal testing”, the GFX 50S’ shutter is rated at 150,000 actuation.

With this information, it is a safe assumption that the X-T2 and X-T3 are also rated around 150,000 actuation.

At the end of the day, you’re really just looking to see a reasonable shutter count between 50,000-100,000 actuation. A higher shutter count is not the end of the world, but the higher usage should be reflected in the price of the camera.

Second, you’ll want to be aware of any physical imperfections on the camera body. Scrapes and scratches are common for cameras that are used heavily. Professional and amateur photographers alike bump their cameras or throw them in their bags with other gear causing scratches and cosmetic damage.

What you will want to look out for are any dents to the camera’s body. Dents are a sign of harsh trauma to the camera and could mean some of the internals have been damaged on impact. This could also mean some of the buttons or dials are not working properly.

If you decide to buy a camera with cosmetic damages or dents, make sure the price reflects the physical condition of the camera.

Third, you should make sure the camera’s sensor is not scratched or dirty. Along with inspecting the body of the camera, you should inspect the sensor. Dirt and dust can be dealt with using an air blower or special sensor cleaning kit (this one is specifically for APS-C sensors like the X-T2 and X-T3).

A quick side note about cleaning sensors, if you are not comfortable with cleaning your own sensor, some camera shops offer cleaning services. Though they will cost more than cleaning sensors yourself, you can usually trust that the technician will do a good job (check Google reviews to be safe, of course).

Scratches on the sensor cannot be fixed without replacing the sensor and will affect your image quality. I recommend avoiding any camera with scratches on the sensor, the repair costs generally make the deal not worth it.

Though dirt and dust can be removed, significant amounts of gunk on the sensor can indicate that the camera was not handled with care. Be cautious with really dirty sensors because you never know what other problems there are with the camera as a result of neglect.

Fourth, you’ll want to confirm the accessories included with the camera. Does the camera come with the original battery or a third-party one? Though it shouldn’t necessarily be a dealbreaker it is something the seller should tell you before you commit to buying it.

Something to note is that some third-party batteries reportedly expand in heat, causing them to get stuck in cameras. I recommend looking up some reviews for the specific battery and battery brand that is being included. The Fujifilm X-T2 uses the NP-W126 battery and the X-T3 uses the updated NP-W126S.

The fifth and final tip is to meet in a public place if you are buying in person. The safest places are shopping malls, parks, or even police stations. Lots of police stations actually have exchange spots specifically for transactions on Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, etc.

Fujifilm X-T2 Versus X-T3 Image Sensor Comparison

Sensor Sizes & Technology

The Fujifilm X-T2 and X-T3 both use APS-C-sized sensors. This means that when compared with a full-frame sensor, both cameras have a roughly 1.52x crop factor. Sensor size is a hot debate in the photography community.

Which sensor size is best is completely subjective so I can’t give an answer. If you’re looking for more of an in-depth discussion on this topic, check out my article covering APS-C versus full-frame sensors.

The Fujifilm X-T2 features a 24.3 Megapixel APS-C X-Trans CMOS III sensor with a primary colour filter. This sensor measures 23.6mm x 15.6mm.

The Fujifilm X-T3 features a 26.1 Megapixel APS-C X-Trans CMOS 4 sensor with a primary colour filter that measures 23.5mm x 15.6mm.

Both of these cameras utilize ultrasonic vibration sensor cleaning. Now, what exactly is this? To put it simply, your sensor vibrates fast enough that it shakes the dust off of itself without being audible to human ears.

Fujifilm X-Trans CMOS Timeline

Before we look at the difference between X-Trans CMOS III and 4, we need to understand what each part of these titles means and how they affect your photography. So first we’ll ask; what is X-Trans CMOS?

The roots of X-Trans CMOS originated from Fujifilm silver halide film developed from the 1970s to the 1990s. Using this film as a reference, Fujifilm developed X-Trans CMOS sensors in 2012.

In 2013, Fujifilm developed X-Trans CMOS II. This was then followed by the X-Trans CMOS III technology, developed in 2016, that is featured on the X-T2. Then, in 2018, Fujifilm developed X-Trans CMOS 4, which is featured on the X-T3.

Fujifilm is known for its colour science and film simulations, now we know how they first developed the technology that has become the sensors featured in the X-T2 and X-T3.

Fujifilm’s X-Trans CMOS Versus Bayer Filter Array

Now that we know that X-Trans has to do with technology developed from Fujifilm’s silver halide film stock, let’s take a look into what CMOS means and why Fujifilm chose CMOS over the more traditional Bayer filter array.

Remember the long name of these Fuji sensors, “APS-C X-Trans CMOS III/4 with primary colour filter”? To fully understand CMOS (complementary metal–oxide–semiconductor), first, consider why camera sensors need colour filters.

Without any kind of colour filter, your camera won’t see any colours. Its sensor will only be able to measure the intensity of light hitting each photosite.

For reference, photosite is the correct term for a sensor’s “pixels”. The term “pixel” actually refers to the digital representation of the light that was recorded by your camera’s image sensor.

Bayer array filters, and X-Trans CMOS for that matter, take advantage of the fact that our eyes are more sensitive to green so their colour filter patterns feature more green than red or blue. This helps the camera capture the scene with more accurate colours.

The issue with using a pattern is that you introduce an effect called moiré. Moiré (pronounced “more-ay”) materializes as wavy lines or weird patterns that aren’t part of the original image. The easiest way to think of moiré is that it is the clashing of a pattern in an image (take a flannel shirt as an example) with the RGB pattern on a Bayer filter.

In the photo above, take note of the out-of-place pattern showing up on the bottom of the curtains. This is a prime example of moiré, the pattern on the curtains clashes with the Bayer filter array resulting in this effect.

Fujifilm’s X-Trans CMOS sensors reduce this problem by randomizing the pattern of red, green, and blue on their primary colour filters. The idea is that your patterns can’t clash if there is no pattern on the primary colour filter.

Another upside to these sensors is that the images they capture look more natural and smooth because of the X-Trans CMOS filters. This is one of the reasons why photographers often swear by Fujifilm’s “colour science”.

X-Trans CMOS III Versus X-Trans CMOS 4

Now that we fully understand these Fujifilm image sensors, we can ask this; what is the difference between the X-Trans CMOS III and 4 featured on the X-T2 and X-T3 respectively?

One of the main differentiators between these two sensors is image quality. The X-T3 has a 26.1 Mp sensor as opposed to the X-T2’s 24.3 Mp sensor. This will give you a bit more wiggle room when cropping your photos but, for the untrained eye, there may not be a visible difference.

It is worth it to note that some users on Reddit’s r/FujifilmX page have reported more noise on the X-T3 than the X-T2 at high ISO. However, I haven’t personally experienced this in my use of these cameras.

If you’re interested in this topic, check out my article explaining what noise is and how to avoid it.

Another key benefit to the X-T3’s X-Trans CMOS 4 sensor is faster autofocus performance. This is great for when you’re shooting a moving subject, are moving, or are taking video.

These are the two key differences in these sensors that will affect your photography. When it comes to image quality, I have not seen a massive difference between the two cameras. Though, in my use of both cameras, I have noticed an improvement in autofocus speed with the X-T3.

Fujifilm X-T2 Versus X-T3 Screen Comparison

Both of these cameras feature tilting monitors as opposed to the more common flip-out monitors. These screens can still tilt vertically and horizontally, but cannot face the front of the camera (vlogger style). These cameras both feature 3.0″ screens with an aspect ratio of 3:2. They are both approximately 1.04 million dots.

Only the X-T3 monitor has touchscreen capabilities. The X-T2’s screen must be navigated using only buttons.

Is the touchscreen really that important? This, like sensor size, is also a hot topic in the photography community. And to answer that question, I went straight to said photography community on Reddit’s r/photography page.

Generally, the users arguing against touchscreens state that they simply don’t use touchscreen functions often or ever. So the decision for you is all up to whether or not you would find a use for either of these two key functions.

The first function for touchscreens is to select autofocus zones. You can set your camera to either focus on the point you touch, or to set your focus area while you manually trigger autofocus using your shutter button.

The second function is to zoom into your photos while reviewing them. This is something I personally do a lot to make sure I hit my focus properly. I mainly do this during portrait shoots as I am usually shooting at a wide aperture on my tighter lenses, meaning my focal plane is smaller.

For anyone worried, you can program the touchscreen on the X-T3 to disable while the EVF (electronic viewfinder) is engaged so you don’t accidentally change your area of focus with your nose.

You can also set your X-T3 to take a shot upon touching the screen but, in all honesty, I have never used this function and can’t imagine a situation where I would.

Fujifilm X-T2 Versus X-T3 Buttons, Dials, & Connections

On the outside, these two cameras look identical. This is because they both feature the same button and dial layout.

The X-T2’s digital interface ports are as follows: USB 3.0 (high-speed) and Micro-USB. It also features an HDMI micro connector (Type-D). As for other ports, the X-T2 has ø3.5mm (aux), ø2.5mm stereo mini connector (microphone), Remote Release Connector, Hot shoe, and Synchronized terminal.

The X-T3’s digital interface ports are USB type C (USB 3.1 Gen 1) and Micro-USB. It, like the X-T2, has a Type-D HDMI micro connector. The other ports on the X-T3 are a ø3.5mm stereo mini connector (headphone), ø2.5mm stereo mini connector (microphone), Remote Release Connector, Hot shoe, and Synchronized terminal.

You may have noticed, these are almost identical connection layouts. The only difference is with the USB ports. This leads us to the question; what’s the difference between USB 3.0 and USB 3.1 (Gen 1)?

Noting. They’re the same technology using different names. USB 3.1 (Gen 1) was originally called USB 3.0 but was then renamed following the release of USB 3.1 (Gen 2).

The naming conventions for USB are pretty confusing seeing as USB 3.1 (Gen 1) and USB 3.2 (Gen1) both have the same transfer speed of 5 Gbps.

This means USB 3.0, USB 3.1 (Gen 1), and USB 3.2 (Gen 2) are interchangeable. So, what does this mean for your Fuji camera?

The USB Type-C ports on the X-T2 and X-T3 use the same technology; for all intents and purposes, they are the same port with different names. So, in the end, the button, dial, and connection layouts of these two cameras are the exact same.

Is It Worth Upgrading From the X-T2 to the X-T3?

We’ve discussed the internals of each camera, and the externals of these cameras, and have even looked at examples of both. So, we have one final question to ask; is it worth upgrading from the X-T2 to the X-T3?

Really, it depends on your price range. If you are on a tight budget, the X-T2 is a great option. As seen above, the X-T2 can take photos on par with the X-T3.

The real consideration you need to make is not image quality, it’s convenience. The main features you will get with the X-T3 are touchscreen capabilities and faster autofocus performance.

If you can afford to make the jump to the X-T3, I recommend you do. And if you are looking at buying one or the other, I recommend spending the extra money and buying the X-T3. Though, the X-T2 will get the job done if needed.

I have definitely noticed a difference in speed between the X-T2 autofocus and the X-T3 autofocus, and I use the touchscreen on the X-T3 every time I shoot. In the end, it comes down to personal preference and individual needs and the important thing is that you are out there shooting.

If you’re looking for a more in-depth review, check out my article explaining why the X-T2 is still a great camera.